Chamundi Hills

Ask anyone in Mysuru where the city truly begins, and they will point upward, to Chamundi Hills. Rising about 1,000 metres on the eastern edge of the city, this green hill carries the temple, the legend and the name that gave Mysuru its identity. At its summit stands the Chamundeshwari Temple, the seat of the goddess locals call the guardian of the city, reached by a devotional flight of 1,008 stone steps or a winding drive up the valley road.

Barely 13 km from the palace, Chamundi Hills is usually the first place Mysureans send a visitor. Locals often say Mysuru exists because of Chamundeshwari, and standing on the hilltop, looking down at the palace and the shimmering lakes, it is easy to believe. This guide walks you through the story, the climb, what to see at the top, how to get there, and how to round off the day like a true Mysurean.

Why Chamundi Hills is the heart of Mysuru

The hill is named after Goddess Chamundeshwari (Chamundi), a fierce form of Shakti and the Kuladevi, or family deity, of the Wodeyar royal house that ruled Mysuru for centuries. Across Karnataka she is revered as Nada Devi, the state goddess. The city sits at the base of her hill, and every major moment in Mysuru's calendar, above all the grand Dasara, still turns toward her.

From the peak, the whole of Mysuru unfolds like a painting: the domes of the Mysore Palace, the calm waters of Karanji Lake and Kukkarahalli Lake, and the white silhouette of Lalitha Mahal against the greenery. It is this rare meeting of spirituality and sweeping views that keeps travellers lingering far longer than they planned.

The legend of Chamundeshwari and Mahishasura

Local tradition tells of Mahishasura, a powerful buffalo-headed demon king who ruled this region and terrorised its people. To end his reign, the gods invoked Goddess Durga, who took the fierce form of Chamundeshwari and battled him on this very hill, finally slaying him. That is why she is also worshipped as Mahishasura Mardini, the slayer of Mahisha.

The place where the demon fell became known as Mahishuru, the town of Mahisha, a name that softened over the centuries into Mysuru and was later anglicised by the British to Mysore. The city's name is a living memory of that battle. Near the summit, a tall, brightly painted statue of Mahishasura, a sword in one hand and a cobra in the other, marks the story for every visitor. The temple is also counted among the revered Shakti Peethas, traditionally one of the eighteen Maha Shakti Peethas.

A short history of the Chamundeshwari Temple

Worship on Chamundi Hills is believed to stretch back more than a thousand years. The original shrine is generally attributed to the Hoysalas around the 12th century, with the temple tower added around the 17th century under Vijayanagara patronage. It was the Wodeyar dynasty, though, who turned a modest hill shrine into the grand structure seen today, honouring Chamundeshwari as their patron goddess.

In 1827, Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar III renovated the temple and raised its striking seven-tier gopuram, about 40 metres tall and richly carved with gods, goddesses and mythical figures, which still glints in the sun and can be seen from miles away. Built in the Dravidian style, the temple has a quadrangular plan, silver-plated entrance doors that nod to its royal past, and a sanctum where the goddess is adorned with gold jewellery, including a famed golden nose-ring said to be a gift from the royal family.

The 1,008 steps and the giant Nandi

For pilgrims, the true way up is on foot. The 1,008 stone steps were built in 1659 by Maharaja Dodda Devaraja Wodeyar, and the climb is a rite of passage in itself. Many steps are streaked with vermilion left by devotees over generations. It is unhurried and meditative, and best begun early before the sun climbs high.

About two-thirds of the way up, near the 700th step, you meet one of South India's most breathtaking sights: a colossal Nandi, the bull mount of Lord Shiva, carved from a single block of black granite. About 4.9 m (16 feet) tall and 7.6 m (24 feet) long, and dating to the mid-17th century, it is among the largest Nandi statues in India. Its stone has darkened over centuries of ritual oil and offerings. Around here the steps ease, the breeze picks up, and the city spreads out beneath you, the perfect place to catch your breath.

What to see at the top

• The Chamundeshwari Temple and its towering, sculpture-covered gopuram.
• The iconic, brightly painted Mahishasura statue near the temple entrance.
• The panoramic viewpoint, with the palace, the lakes and the city grid laid out below.
• Other shrines on the hill, including the Sri Mahabaleshwara and Narayanaswamy temples.
• Free prasada for devotees (rice, sambar, rasam and buttermilk), plus small stalls for coffee, sugarcane juice, snacks and souvenirs.

How to reach Chamundi Hills

Chamundi Hills is about 13 km from the centre of Mysuru, on the eastern side of the city. There are three ways up:

• On foot: climb the 1,008 steps from the base for the full pilgrimage experience.
• By road: drive, or take a taxi or auto, up the scenic winding valley road right to the temple.
• By bus: KSRTC city buses run up about every 20 minutes from the city bus stand near K R Circle.

The nearest railway station is Mysuru Junction (about 13 km), and Bengaluru's Kempegowda International Airport is about 170 km away. For a fuller plan, follow our Mysuru road trip.

Chamundi Hills at a glance

Best time to visit, timings and tips

The most comfortable season is October to February, when Mysuru's weather is pleasant. Arrive early in the morning for clear views and thinner crowds. The hill is at its most magical during Dasara and Navaratri, when the idol of Chamundeshwari rides the golden howdah at the heart of the world-famous Mysuru Dasara procession. Expect heavy crowds then and around Diwali.

• Check timings before you go, especially on festival days. Darshan generally runs in the morning and again from late afternoon into the evening.
• No plastic. Chamundi Hills is a no-plastic zone, so leave plastic bags behind.
• Mind the monkeys near the temple. Keep food, offerings and phones secured.
• Dress modestly for temple entry, and be ready to remove footwear at the sanctum.

Pair your visit with nearby places

• Karanji Lake: right at the foothills, with a walk-through aviary, butterfly park and boating.
• Lalitha Mahal: the gleaming white palace-hotel at the foot of the hills, best photographed with Chamundi behind it.
• Mysore Palace: the illuminated icon you will spot glittering from the summit.
• Mysore Zoo: one of India's oldest and best-kept zoos, a short drive away.
• St. Philomena's Church: a soaring Neo-Gothic cathedral across the city.
• Mysuru Rail Museum: vintage locomotives and a maharaja's saloon coach near the railway station.

Carry a taste of Mysuru home

The same royal kitchens that honoured Chamundeshwari also gave the world its most famous sweet. Mysore Pak, the melt-in-the-mouth treat of ghee, gram flour and sugar, was born in the kitchens of the Mysore Palace during the Wodeyar era, and it remains the definitive edible souvenir of the city. A morning on the hill and a box of Mysore Pak are the two most Mysuru things you can do in a single day.

At World of Mysore Pak, we make it the traditional way, in fresh daily batches with 100% pure ghee. Shop the whole range online, from Traditional and Jaggery Mysore Pak to our pure-ghee sweets, with delivery across India.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Chamundi Hills located?

On the eastern edge of Mysuru, Karnataka, about 13 km from the city centre and Mysore Palace. The Chamundeshwari Temple crowns its summit at about 1,000 metres, with panoramic views of the palace, lakes and city below.

How many steps are there at Chamundi Hills?

There are 1,008 stone steps to the top, built in 1659 by Maharaja Dodda Devaraja Wodeyar. Near the 700th step you reach the enormous monolithic Nandi, where the climb eases and the city opens up below.

Why is Chamundi Hills famous?

It is home to the Chamundeshwari Temple, one of the revered Shakti Peethas and the seat of Mysuru's guardian goddess. Legend says Goddess Chamundeshwari slew the demon Mahishasura here, the story that gave the city its name.

How do you reach the top of Chamundi Hills?

Climb the 1,008 steps as a devotional trek, or drive up the winding valley road by car, taxi or auto. KSRTC city buses also run up about every 20 minutes from the city bus stand near K R Circle.

What are the Chamundeshwari Temple timings?

Darshan is generally open in the morning and again from late afternoon into the evening, with an extra night slot on some days. Timings change, especially during festivals, so check the official temple schedule before you go.

What is the best time to visit?

October to February has the most pleasant weather, and early mornings give the clearest views and smallest crowds. The hill is most spectacular during Dasara and Navaratri, though crowds are large then and around Diwali.

How did Chamundi Hills give Mysuru its name?

By legend, the buffalo demon Mahishasura ruled this land until Goddess Chamundeshwari defeated him on the hill. The place became known as Mahishuru, the town of Mahisha, which became Mysuru and was later anglicised by the British to Mysore.

Plan your climb

Whether you climb the thousand steps as an act of faith or drive up simply for the view, Chamundi Hills leaves you with the feeling of having stood in the presence of the goddess who gave Mysuru its name. It is history, mythology and skyline on one hilltop, and the ideal way to begin any Mysuru journey.

Ready for more? Continue the Mysuru road trip, and don't leave without a box of authentic Mysore Pak to remember it by.